Technical Rock Climbing
Baxter State Park offers some of the most remote and challenging technical climbing in New England. Climbers can find any type of climbing to challenge themselves, from bouldering to multi pitch climbs. Most of the Katahdin climbing routes are accessed from Chimney Pond via the Roaring Brook Campgrounds, a 3.3 mile hike. Approaches to these climbs can take from ½ hour to 2 hours. For the Armadillo, Flat Iron and Pamola 4 routes it is recommended to leave Chimney Pond by 8:00am. Technical Rock and Ice climbing in Baxter State Park is considered a day use activity
As technical rock climbing continues to grow, it becomes necessary to balance this recreational activity with responsible management of the Park's resources. Respect for the environment and a commitment to Leave No Trace climbing techniques are required of the climbing community. Baxter State Park does not allow practices such as placing bolts on existing routes or establishing new bolt-intensive routes and chipping or gluing new holds.
To accomplish this goal, please adopt this code of ethics
for low impact climbing:
- Accept responsibility for yourself and others.
- Pack out all litter. Bury human waste away from water (200' if possible) or pack it out.
- Use existing access trails to approach climbs. Avoid short-cutting trails.
- Know and respect historic and environmentally sensitive areas.
- Be considerate of wildlife and other users.
- Leave the rock and its environs in its natural condition.
- Know and abide by the Baxter State Park Rules & Regulations.
You Are Responsible For Yourself, So Be Prepared.
Competent technique, experience, safety equipment,
physical fitness and good judgment are Essential.
- Because of the geology and remoteness climbing helmets are required.
- Besides climbing gear, recommended equipment includes rain gear, at least 2L of water, headlamp, first aid kit, map & compass.
- Like all park users, climbers should sign in & out at all trail registers. Check-in with the Chimney Pond rangers is advisable to get up to date weather and local conditions.
- Hazards in the form of sudden violent weather (lightning, wind, snow, and rainstorms), waterfalls, and the dangers associated with climbing, cause injuries every year and can ruin a climb.
- Always let a friend know your plans. You are responsible for notifying someone when you return.
- Baxter State Park rangers will not start a search until after a climber is reported overdue.